Simple Tips To Roofing Your Log Cabin

Tips To Roofing Your Log Cabin

By far the most commonly used roofing for log cabins consists of shingles. The bulk of the building blocks for log cabins is provided with this roofing. The biggest advantage for a log cabin is that shingles are lightweight and a lighter roof construction is also sufficient. After roof tiles, shingles are also the most widely used roof covering for homes worldwide. In Europe, they are not often applied to homes, but in America, for example, they are very popular.
Shingles are available in various shapes such as a hexagon, beaver tail and hexagonal, but the most commonly used are the ordinary rectangular shingles. Also, you have the choice of various colors, including green, red and black shingles.

Tips and Tricks for Laying Shingles

For optimal water tightness, the shingles must be secured to the edge of the roof.
If a part of a roof covered with shingles has to be repaired, remove the bad old shingles and replace them with new ones. You can also nail new shingles over the old.

Shingles are best for bending to prevent cracking and kinking. In cold weather, you can heat the shingles first at the back. In warm weather, it is advisable to bend the bundles/packages before closing the roof shells. The roof shells will then be better separated from each other.

Shingles lay For Your Log Cabin Roof, How To Apply?

To place shingles on your log cabin, start with the distances from the cam. You can put a horizontal line on the roof shot at a distance from the depth of the shingle notches from the cam. Then you always put a line at that distance. These stripes will make you feel right and keep your straight jobs.
Then you begin with laying the shingles. The lower row (the so-called foot hinges) puts you in reverse (i.e., with the notches upwards) so that you get a neat, smooth edge on the side of the roof. Leave this tip 6 to 10 mm across the side of the ceiling. For that lower layer, you can also cut the "protrusions." Nail this layer with four 6 asphalt nails.

Most roof shells are provided with adhesive strips on the underside. Due to warming, these shields make the shingles glue to each other and to the shingles to give you a whole. Do not use the shingles with adhesive strips or in cold weather; you can use the best bitumen-cold glue to glue the shingles extra.

The following rows of shingles lay down with the notches down and with the back against the chalk strip. Make sure that the first row you lay is already well over the footsteps.

Spice the shingles always 25 mm above the notches and at the same height 25 mm from the edge. In this way, you are always nailed by two layers of shingles, and the nails are again covered by the next row. Use for nailing asphalt nails and make sure you do not nail them obliquely and not too deeply. The nails must not push the shingles.

For every next row, skip a half shingle. For this reason, you have to cut a half shingle off the strip. In this way, you get a 'half-stone' connection.
Work through this way to the top of your garden shelf.

The cam will cover you with loose cut shingles. This holds you over the cam after which you nail them to the edge. Lay the next folded shingle about 5 cm past the previous and in any case over the nails of the last shingle. When laying down, take into account where the wind usually comes from and starting from the wind. This way you run less risk of water blowing under the camshafts


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